This causes all types of havoc with your other systems, including suspension, braking and cooling. The engine is also of course very large in size so it's a tight fit into the tiny civic engine bay providing that you make space by removing both air-conditioning and power steering systems. The cylinder head on the B20B model particularly the tall intake manifold doesn't clear the hoodline of the civic, which is ok since the B16 head swap will add Vtec abilities and increased power. Honda part numbers would be greatly appreciated. There were also no little marks on the crankcase nut by the bottom of the car. Use the one to the right by itself : It should look like this when aligned: Now go back to your timing gear.
And should i invest in the motor i have or the ultimate sleeping Civic with the B18? You could essentially boost it higher without getting beefed up rods and not destroying it. But if you don't plan on turbocharging this engine past 15 psi or letting it rev to 11,000 rpm, then it should meet your modest power needs. B16B, B16A and B18C5 are all the same casting heads the B16B and B18C5 have the slight port job from the factory as you mentioned but the B16B just has a more aggressive exhaust cam. Because from what I've heard, both engines can make ungodly power. .
This is definitely not the cheap swap. If not get an upgraded aftermarket pump. Think of this magic number as the point where everything is balanced. This effectively makes your weight distribution even worse than what it was before. That would be really really cool. Currently, i got a d16z6 in my car with 356,000 miles.
It lines up with a little notch at the bottom of the timing belt cover so I was thinking that may be the marker. So no, you don't have to weld. They don't offer huge power outputs at 142hp 6300 rpm and 127 lb. Of the things Honda designed into the Vtec blocks to help them survive high rpm use are oil squirters. Drill out the spot welds and hammer it off. First off I need to mention a few things. For your average honda enthusiast, You shoudn't need to worry about such things.
These are extremely easy to find since allot ppl swap them out in favor for more expensive engines. You could leave it as is and simply swap the head for B16 model. Should i keep my engine and just go with regular mods? Should I possibly go with the b18c? If so, how is this done? I didn't find anything in this post about which motor mounts to use, which is the info I need. Now imagine not climbing to 10,000 rpm but strapping a turbocharger onto this unstable engine. The problem is ppl goto college and spend years around race cars to learn this stuff.
The one you should be looking at should be near the 7 O'clock position on the bottom, just slightly offset to the left. Give this a shot as it should leave you in good shape. This makes the Y8 manifold flow and perform better. B18C1 The B16B head is by far the best head but it's rather expensive and rare. Align this mark with the mark at the bottom left of this picture: Ensure the two alignment marks are lined up. Honda part numbers would be greatly appreciated.
But I know it was just a suggestion, I'm not biting your head off : Originally posted by i like naked girls there are some strange exceptions though. If I were a betting man, I'd suggest the writing on the gear itself should be upright to get it correct, with the degree marks which are at the bottom now on top so you can see them easily to clock the gear correctly. The A1 is the pre-obd engine that came with a cable transmission and various other pre 5th gen. A fully balanced engine can rev higher and take more boost before engine components exceed thier maximum stress levels. Don't do go cheap with this. There were more changes to the engines than just the head like displacement, compression and air flow tracts. Whenever they want to swap engines, they all go for the B16.
Find out as much info from as many sources as you can find. Head Swapping Pros: One of the points of swapping in a Vtec head is they usually flow allot better than their non Vtec counter parts. There's a shop within walking distance to my house that does engine swaps and they have a list of all the ones available. And you can use the motors mounts. To do this you need to get custom length rods Not too hard and you need to have your engine destroked. But if you don't plan on turbocharging this engine past 15 psi or letting it rev to 11,000 rpm, then it should meet your modest power needs. Set up good for 300-350whp.
The upside is the cheap price. It is a small displacement engine that has flat torque line!!! You have to bush the small end of the rod to make the civic pins work or get custom pistons made with the b18 pin in them. Thanks for writing this thread up man, its kind of opened up a new area of technical info for me, something new to learn about. It makes for great Vtec high end and the larger displacement block makes for the biggest torque of all the engines listed here. With this setup you could go uphill mountain racing without fear overheating.
This is normally not too bad because things are very well lubricated in your engine. Originally posted by xivera Uhmm. If you have a 5th gen. As for the block gaurd, yes this would definitly help. Not vey impressive but good enough for me. The overall suspension tuning should concentrate on trying to create heavy oversteer to offset the natural understeer problem the extra weight will create. A higher ratio could have been accomplished by transmission modifications, such as an overdrive top gear, a dual range transmission, or simply by using larger diameter wheels, in conjunction with a wide ratio transmission, so there would be sufficient torque on the driving wheels in first gear.