There is 2 codes whwn I scanned while car was off. I am getting a misfire, primarily on cylinder 5. Is there enough room at the firewall? Any advice would be welcome. All cylinders showed apps 117 to 120. Much easier to remove from top side. It could be simple charging system issue. Give our parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799.
One more thing: most all cars have electrical systems very similar to each other. Im at a loss here i really feel as if it is something so simple like a not conected power cord to my anti theft system thats keeping the engin from turning over at all. Overall compression sounds low to me. Everything came on fine, just no click or crank. I'm always checking oil so that should be fine too. I went to an auto parts store and the battery, starter and alternator all passed.
I had same problem last year and couldn't start until end of spring when gets warmer. Fuel pressure is at 50 psi at idle and under heavy load. Start by checking your fluid level. I would check voltage to the starter and voltage drop test the battery cables. I'd like to find and fix the cause before I put everything back together if not the starter. Judging by the odor you got fuel.
Anyone know what this might be? Anyone help or advise if can be injector or something else. I havent been able to find any pics of the original bolts removed and would just like to make sure i have the right bolts before getting started. If you are able to remedy it, there are likely other issues. Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated! November 23, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: No, it only updates the performance map. Had exactly the same with mine.
If it won't shift, it not start be due to the incorrect gear seen. You are already there might as well do it. I am experiencing a crank no start condition. Also, you don't have to remove the bolts from the bell housing once they're freed from the starter. I would start by checking the vehicle for fault codes. Did you confirm the new alternator was working correctly? Check lights again, if not working, the battery needs to be replaced or recharged. You have too many digits there.
The fluid levels can also indicate a leak in your engine. I just replaced the battery and no error codes are popping on the start up system. You cannot access the alignment pin from above without the intake manifold removed. Thanks for the link, i'll try look it up. Remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug. Check if the starter has a signal to run when it shouldn't.
Any ideas what to do??? June 2, 2014 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Yes and no. I have swapped coils changed plugs replaced all vacuum lines also did a ccv with new hoses valve cover gasket throttle body o ring cleaned injectors swapped them tested ignition wiring harness for shorts or open circuits same with fuel harness. On E30's, the crank position sensor is a critical input, if the ecu doesn't get that signal, then, no start; memory is a little fuzzy, but I think on E30 it wouldn't either run the fuel pumps or trigger the injectors. The float had casting marks and would catch down, flooding the engine, leading to all sorts of problems. Another telltale sign of a broken timing belt is the sound the engine makes during cranking. Hi there,done almost the same to my car a few weeks ago. I live in Europe for the last few years.
I am an owner of this for something over a year and this is the first time battery died, so everything is just a bit new to me. I don't no where on earth you are, but assuming northern hemis-sphere and it is very cold then this is when you find out your battery is marginal, as the cold means it gives less juice, the engine is harder to crank thick oil and the mixture is less likely to fire. The starter takes lots of amps to make it go, but when the battery dies, the ability to supply those amps decreases, and the result is that the voltage decreases to the point that nothing works, then the voltaqge rises again because there are no loads, then because you are holding the key, the voltage drops again, then no load and the voltage rises, the load resumes so the voltage drops. Now all it will do is crank over and over and nothing happens. Any ideas what the problem might be.
What is it on all cylinders? I think I have some serious electronic problems. Tried 2 and car wouldn't start, only interior lights would come on and clicking sound when turning ignition. A Pelican community member may be able to answer your question. With these types of transmissions, your problem can be either mechanical or electrical. January 10, 2019 Followup from the Pelican Staff: That code sets when a misfire is present.
I put a new battery on it along with a start 3 months back. It sounds in your case as if you did not crank it excessively so that may not be an issue. Just my 02 cents worth but again it is good that you have your car running again. After charging the battery all day, I can crank for a long time, but still the engine won't start. If the 325 was overheating, this could be an indication of a problem with the engine cooling system. Check for the star signal, also voltage drop test the battery cables.