Check to see if your truck is on the list here. I'm sure others with more experience will chime in to help. Do you think the latest version will last longer, or is two years an expected lifespan? I haven't noticed whether the circuit gets energized every now and then or just when the outside temperature is below freezing, but the controller can tell whether the heaters are in place or not, and it then communicates that to the computer. I've got a Micro Can from Ross-Tech. You can work this out. Further news: I downloaded the shop manual, including the wiring diagrams. I used a 100W resistor because I wanted to ensure that the resistor would not burn up if the heater circuit was to get energized while I'm troubleshooting.
By measuring each heater, I discovered that my tank heater is bad. Then I cleared the code. This is essentially how Ford builds the truck; the frame assembly is mated to the body assembly on the line. Also to blame: well-meaning service station attendants, techs at non-diesel shops, and even owners of gas rigs hoping to reap the benefit of increased fuel economy. The warranty covers the replacement part and labor for the heater install. Any advice would be appreciated.
Water took it off easily though. My troubleshooting conclusion was correct! I wonder how many people have been killed by that safety feature of limiting your speed to 55 mph and 4 mph. If the error is caught before the key is turned, the fix may be as simple as dropping the fuel tank and flushing it out. I may have to reinstall old system at some point so don't want to burn out pump and seemed easiest to leave in place. Its the easiest part of the whole delete job. I'm willing to bet that a much smaller resistor would work, but if the temperature dropped to the point where the heater was supposed to do it's job, you would run the chance of burning up your resistor and maybe the heater controller.
We are always happy to help! That could cause various exhaust issues. Not so good but I don't blame Nick I blame Baby Boy for the sell out but who cares. I read the letter closer and it says 10 years or 120,000 miles. I order them two at a time from Amazon. I want to tune it just this isn't a commuting truck I use it to haul product for my work every day and i need it to work consistently.
We found rust in both areas! I haven't noticed whether the circuit gets energized every now and then or just when the outside temperature is below freezing, but the controller can tell whether the heaters are in place or not, and it then communicates that to the computer. I get about 7k miles between full and warning. Mine is out of warranty so I have to replace it myself. It's been cold here so I haven't been in a hurry to replace it yet. If I ever have a problem with any of the emissions stuff on my truck it's coming off and I'll be on my merry way with a better performing, more efficient truck. Everything is working fine except on first start up it immediately pumped all the def out and now pump is running dry. I'd put one of those oil pan heaters on it if necessary the stick on ones.
The part has been redesigned by Chevy to not fail prematurely. Called Bully Dog tech and a teenager who knew nothing was no help. If poor-quality fluid is not replaced within 200 miles, the vehicle speed will be limited to 55 mph at the next vehicle start. You probably don't shut the Fords off for fear they wont restart. Also, I have to ask, what kind of weight are you towing to only get 2500 miles out of 5. So to repeat my question, is there a dedicated def pump fuse perhaps unlabeled? That was last year story too. I don't beleive they know the issue either.
See now you know why I said you can't help him. Nick I have heard the Fords and Chevys are having issues with the Exhaust fluid freezeing. It wasn't huge and didn't spread very far from the edge. Under the hood next to the engine 86 degrees F in Florida? I put one in mine as soon as the warning shifts from Exhaust fluid 'okay' to it being needed in however many miles. It was even happening on both sides and in the same place. Is it really that big of a deal? Called Bully Dog tech and a teenager who knew nothing was no help. A smaller 3 ohm resistor with a fuse to protect it and the controller might work for a while anyway.
Had a second garage put another one in and the first shop had to eat it. Truck of my dreams became a nightmare! So the Def fluid was puking out all over the the top of the tank. You can read the prior full report here and see more images. I know if I remove, it will void the factory warranty. Some shops up here that do the tuning don't give you any way to revert to stock. I may have to reinstall old system at some point so don't want to burn out pump and seemed easiest to leave in place.
Mine was the return line back to the tank. So to repeat my question, is there a dedicated def pump fuse perhaps unlabeled? Some shops up here that do the tuning don't give you any way to revert to stock. Since Joe's information was made available, other owners have also reported the same problem. I know if I remove, it will void the factory warranty. We just keep towing them back. Great we are getting ours fixed 1300 is the estimate, and now the right headlight not working two wks after they checked the check engine light; maybe they slammed the hood? How did it work out? Also, I have to ask, what kind of weight are you towing to only get 2500 miles out of 5. Urea reacts in the second catalytic converter not the first to convert Nitrogen Oxides into Nitrogen and Water.